Natchez

I probably should be working on cleaning up the RV exterior, but just have to share our stop after the Big Easy. We headed north through some beautiful country to Natchez. Located on the banks of the Mississippi river, which is the boundary between Louisiana and Mississippi, this river town turned out to be a jewel. Our campground was on the Louisiana side but right on the levee of the river. We sat and watched the barges slowly go by with their giant cargoes of coal and other raw materials. 

The town itself has roots that go back to 1716 and discovery by the French. Natchez is the oldest city on the Mississippi river. The city was a thriving port prior to the civil war and for years after when cotton was still king. Obviously, no longer proud of their history of enslavement, the city does celebrate it's history of plantations, freedmen, music and art.  It's history includes European settlement, African enslavement, the American cotton economy, to the Civil Rights struggle on the lower Mississippi River.

The visitor center was one of the best we have seen. The National Park system manages three locations in the city, Fort Rosalie, Melrose Plantation, and the William Johnson House. We visited Melrose Plantation which is fully restored with the main house, auxiliary buildings, slave quarters, and carriage house. The plantation interior is by guided tour only and the reason is that the home has been occupied by only three families and was always sold furnished. Amazingly, the interior is about 80% original. The uber-wealthy is nothing new. 

The Samuel Johnson house is located in downtown Natchez. It was the home of a black freedman who was the barber of Natchez. He bought real estate and became such a successful businessman that he purchased his own plantation on the outskirts of town where he had his own slaves. A difficult concept for us to understand, but apparently not that uncommon. The building was retail on the first floor, that he rented, and living quarters for his extended family on the second floor.  He kept a diary from 1835-1851 that is one of the few written histories of life in the pre-civil war era from a freedman's perspective.

Even though he obtained financial security, he always walked a fine line and was certainly never accepted by white society. His diaries sat in the attic of the home until 1976 when they were published.  At the same time, the remaining family sold the house to a historical society and ultimately to the National Park. 

The town is one of little traffic, dozens of restored homes to visit, Natchez Indian mounds (which we visited), great food and music. The blues trail goes right through Natchez. We stopped for lunch one day at the Cotton Alley
Cafe for an excellent meal that included seafood gumbo and southern specialties. 

Natchez was a great surprise and a place worthy of visiting!

Next on to Vicksburg.....